Heating a Country House by Yourself

If you've decided to install heating in your country house yourself, this article is for you. Below, we’ll explore the main components of heating systems, their types and benefits, installation specifics, and ways to reduce heating costs right from the installation stage.

What Does a Heating System Consist Of?

Essentially, a country house heating system includes a boiler—the main heat-generating component—piping for heat transfer fluid circulation, and radiators in each room. In some cases, it may also include a circulation pump and an expansion tank. Just a few years ago, a basic heating system was unthinkable without these two components. Today, most modern boilers come with both a circulation pump and an expansion tank, where excess fluid drains when pressure increases.

The second key element is piping made of reinforced polypropylene or black metal. These carry the heat transfer fluid throughout the house. From the main line, branch connections via tees direct fluid to radiators in each room. Heating systems can be installed using a vertical riser layout or a 'Leningrad' scheme—without a return pipe.

Heating radiators are typically made in three types: cast iron, aluminum, and bimetallic. The choice depends on water quality and the presence of iron or other metals. If water is relatively clean and free of impurities, aluminum radiators are a cost-effective option. If metal content is high, to prevent chemical reactions and corrosion, bimetallic or cast iron radiators are recommended. Heat output varies between types. On average, 0.5 to 0.8 sections per square meter are needed.

Step-by-Step Installation Guide

Heating system installation must begin with the boiler and its connections. In floor-standing boilers, this is especially critical—outlet level must be lower than the return inlet to ensure proper flow.

For the main pipeline, use 32 mm diameter polypropylene piping rated for temperatures up to 80–90°C. This must be heating-specific pipe, reinforced with aluminum foil or fiberglass, as standard pipes can’t withstand temperatures above 60°C and may fail early in winter.

Pipes can be installed along walls using circular brackets matching the pipe diameter. If the wall is clad with drywall or framed, pipes can be routed inside—under cladding or between structural studs. In the latter case, pre-drilled holes in the cladding are needed for radiator connections (35 mm or slightly larger, depending on pipe size).

From the main line, branch pipes to radiators should be installed using tees. Install ball valves before and after each radiator to allow independent removal of sections without shutting down the entire system. Branch pipes should be smaller (e.g., 25 mm) than the main line, using pressure differentials to ensure fluid flows through radiators, not bypassing them.

After routing pipes through all rooms and installing connections for radiator sections, return to the boiler inlet. Most boilers have ¾-inch threaded connections for heating pipes, which attach via plastic-to-metal transition fittings.

After pipe installation, mount radiators on wall brackets and connect them via threaded joints. For 5–6 sections, 2 brackets are typically required; for larger sections, 3 or 4 brackets (1 per 3 sections) are recommended.

How to Save on Home Heating

There are many ways to reduce heating costs. Here are the simplest:

• Install more radiators. Increasing sections by 20–30% is relatively inexpensive, but significantly increases heat-emitting surface area. As a result, the heat transfer fluid needs to be heated less to achieve comfort, reducing gas or electricity consumption.
• Reduce system volume. Replacing standard radiators with modern lithium-bromide models (which hold 3 times less fluid) can reduce the total system volume by 30–40%. This means the boiler heats less water, lowering operating costs.
• Add a circulation pump. Increasing fluid flow speed helps it circulate faster and cool down slower. This reduces the energy needed to maintain target temperature.