Floor Leveling and Pouring Using Guides
Among them: cracking, delamination, bulging of the screed, and height differences between walls.
Preparation
At this stage, all measurements are taken and the height for guide installation is determined. The first step is to find the highest point of the base, which will serve as the starting point for the first guide. A line should be drawn along the perimeter of the room, marking where the future level floor will be poured.
The easiest way to do this is to use a water level or laser level. It’s advisable not to create large distances between marks, as this will simplify further work. Using a string line or straightedge, the marks are connected. When connecting marks on the wall, a perfectly straight line is formed.
The floor is cleaned of dust and debris, cracks and hollows are filled with mortar, and any peeling surfaces are removed. The existing base must be primed. This increases adhesion and helps prevent cracks from forming during base deformation.
Installation of Guide Lines
Guides are installed along the wall, directed toward the door. The simplest method is to attach the profiles to screws, allowing height adjustment. The first screw is driven into the previously identified highest point. Its head should align with the line drawn on the wall. This can be verified using a string and level.
The second screw is placed to form a line parallel to the wall with the first. The remaining screws are then installed at intervals of about 50–60 cm along this line.
After the screws are fixed, the guide profile is attached to them. The same process is used to install subsequent profiles, using the first profile and wall line as reference. The distance between profiles should be 15–20 cm shorter than the length of the screed trowel (for easier leveling). The outermost guide lines should be at least 2–3 cm away from the wall.
Wooden battens can also be used as guides. They must be thoroughly soaked in water beforehand to prevent them from absorbing moisture from the cement mix, which could otherwise lead to cracks during drying.
Occasionally, guide profiles are installed on cement or gypsum mortar. A thick mixture is prepared and shaped into mounds along the line; the profile is then pressed into these mounds.
However, this method requires careful leveling of each guide, increasing labor costs. Additionally, pouring the screed can only begin after the mixture has hardened, which further extends the total work time.
Pouring the Screed
After all profiles are installed, they must be double-checked with a level in all directions. The pouring process begins from one wall, along the outermost guides. The mixture is leveled using a screed trowel or long straight board, moving the tool along the profiles like rails.
Space is gradually filled and the mixture leveled. Mixes from different batches should be blended to avoid layering and ensure a monolithic structure. This process continues until the entire floor is leveled.
After the mixture has hardened, the guide profiles must be removed. If the mix has not fully dried and walking on it could cause deformation, lay wide wooden planks on the floor to walk on. Holes left after profile removal are filled with the same screed mixture and leveled with a trowel.
