Aislamiento del balcón con tus propias manos
Only a few apartment owners realize what they can turn their balcony or loggia into, which for years have served only as a storage space for clutter and a place to dry laundry. Yet in many buildings, the area of these spaces reaches up to 10 m²!
If properly approached, balcony or loggia insulation can transform it into an additional warm, well-renovated room ideal for relaxing not only in summer but also in winter, at minimal cost. Below, you’ll find a detailed guide on how to insulate your balcony yourself.
Besides adding usable space, DIY balcony insulation offers several key benefits. First, the room adjacent to the balcony becomes warmer—there’s no longer an exterior wall separating the living space from the cold outdoors. Second, a fully enclosed, warm, and glazed balcony acts as a powerful barrier against dust and dirt from nearby traffic, and from nearby construction equipment.
Step-by-Step Guide to Balcony Insulation
Originally, the walls, floor, and ceiling of a balcony were not designed for heat retention or maintaining comfortable indoor temperatures. Therefore, any finishing work on balconies and loggias inevitably involves insulation. Skipping this step is not an option, as heating an uninsulated space leads to frost and ice formation on walls, and in spring, moisture overload may cause mold and mildew growth. Approach insulation responsibly—don’t compromise on quality insulation materials or other components.
Here’s the required material list for insulating balcony walls, floors, and ceiling:
- Extruded polystyrene (e.g., Styrofoam 250A) 40–60 mm thick;
- Mineral wool (e.g., ISOVER Karaka P34, 100 mm thick);
- Moisture-resistant sheet cladding materials: Gypsum board (GKЛ), fiber cement board (GVL), or structural metal lath (SML);
- Cement-sand mix for floor screed;
- Vapor barrier film or aluminum foil;
- Galvanized metal profile for framing under drywall;
- Construction foam, sealant, and fasteners (e.g., screws, anchors).
The first step is installing plastic or wooden window units. Seal the window frame perimeter with construction foam. This task should not be done DIY—hire professional glaziers. We’ll skip details, but emphasize: carefully inspect the new windows for leaks, gaps, and joints.
Next, insulate the balcony floor. Lay extruded polystyrene boards (4–6 cm thick) and pour a screed over them. This ensures two main goals: eliminate heat loss through the balcony slab and level the floor to prepare a stable base for final flooring.
Prepare the cement-sand screed mix in a large plastic container by adding water and mixing with a drill-mounted mixer. Recommended screed thickness: at least 5 cm; you may reinforce it with a 3–4 mm welded mesh if desired.
After pouring the screed, let it cure for 2–3 days. If working in hot summer weather, keep the screed moist and cover it with polyethylene film to prevent cracking.
After 3 days, the screed is load-ready (you can walk on it or place furniture), so you can proceed to insulating walls and ceiling. Build a metal frame for drywall or other cladding (e.g., tongue-and-groove boards). Insert insulation panels (e.g., Karaka P34) into the frame, then cover them with vapor barrier film or aluminum foil. The foil not only protects the insulation from moisture but also reflects heat. Fix mineral wool to walls using plastic anchor bolts (also known as ‘mushrooms’). Apply the same method to insulate the ceiling. Use at least five anchor points per board (at corners and center).
When installing vapor barrier film, ensure a minimum 15 cm overlap between adjacent sheets. For extra durability, seal joints with tape. Mount drywall onto the metal frame, fastening it along the edges and across the board with screws spaced 20–30 cm apart.
Once the insulation envelope is fully sealed, you may activate heating and move on to final finishing.
